181

Cartier

A highly attractive and intricate set comprising of an enamel and yellow gold open face watch, match holder and mechanical pencil

Estimate
CHF8,000 - 16,000
€8,600 - 17,200
$9,800 - 19,600
CHF40,640
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1910
Case No
Watch: 1230 Pencil: 535
Material
18K yellow gold and enamel
Calibre
Manual, jeweled
Dimensions
Watch: 48mm diameter Pencil: 69mm length Match Holder: 49.5mm diameter
Signed
Watch: Dial signed Cartier & Fils Paris, Londres Pencil: Cartier hand stamped numbers and maker's marks Match Holder: Signed Cartier Paris

Catalogue Essay

It was soon after Fabergé's debut at the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1900 that Cartier created pieces inspired by the Russian jeweler. Carter's creation during the Belle Époque is characterized by the use of guilloché enamel, rose cut diamonds, millegrain finishing, and the use of garland and floral motifs. Cartier used a secret method to acquire a shimmering and translucent effect on its enamel masterpieces, one that involved 5 or 6 layers of enamel, chosen from a palette of over 144 shades.

This set comprising of an open face watch, pencil and match holder is provides for an arresting combination. Most interestingly, the set is rendered in blue and green guiolliché enamel, which was one of Louis Cartier's signature styles (along with a purple/green colour scheme). Here, the typical Russian garland theme is present on the outer edge of the pocket watch and match holder, painted intricately with the gold finishing throughout. This floral motifs/garland style soon became Cartier's trademark style to differentiate the house from its competitor Fabergé.

Cartier

French

With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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