185

Patek Philippe

Ref. 5021J

A superb, lavish and the only example so far publicly known of a yellow gold and diamond-set perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with 24-hour indication, diamond-set numerals, luminous hands, cushion case, certificate, additional caseback and box

Estimate
CHF250,000 - 500,000
€269,000 - 538,000
$306,000 - 612,000
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1996
Reference No
5021J
Movement No
3'045'316
Case No
2'956'067
Material
18k yellow gold and diamonds
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH 27'70 Q, 24 jewels, stamped with the Geneva Seal
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm length and 37mm width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin code-dated May 1996 and stamped by "Cortina Watch Center PTE LTD", additional solid caseback, numbered hangtag, setting pin, Patek Philippe service center sticker, product literature, leather wallet, wooden presentation box and outer packaging.

Catalogue Essay

The longest continuously running line of complicated Patek Philippe watches, the perpetual calendar chronograph with moonphases is a cornerstone of the company’s production, with all its representatives being extremely collectible and some of them considered the ultimate tier of Patek Philippe production.

Most collectors can easily describe the general aesthetics of the line: three counters at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, moonphases at 6, two windows at 12, and a round case - traits which are shared among all the five references which encompass the series: 1518, 2499, 3970, 5970 and 5270.

And yet, the aforementioned reasoning is if not wrong at the very least incomplete: it fails to take into account reference 5020, the sixth representative of the line and the one and only NOT sporting a round case, but rather a cushion one. A most unusual design choice, it is reminiscent of the 1920s production of the firm and was not very well received at the time, resulting in the most scarce output among the four modern references (3970, 5970, 5270 and indeed 5020): about 750 examples were made in all metals from 1994 to 2002.

Once again, however, the above classification is somewhat lacking, as it fails to take into account the gem-set variation of the models. Undoubtedly a superior tier of rarity, these opulent executions are extremely scarce most likely because their price combined with the fact that gem-set pieces were not as fashionable just a couple decades ago as they are now. These models usually bear a case number which differs from their standard counterpart by the digit “1” at the end the reference: ref. 5270 becomes 5271, 5970 becomes 5971, and indeed 5020 becomes the present astounding timepiece: ref. 5021.

While reference 5020 is undoubtedly elusive, reference 5021 goes well beyond what can be considered a simply “scarce” and well exemplifies how difficult it is to come across these 1990s gem-set models. So far, the auction market has seen only 4 examples of the reference: two versions in platinum, one in pink gold, and the present yellow gold piece - making this example, in fact, the only yellow gold 5021 to ever be publicly sold.

Intriguingly, the present watch bears luminous hands a characteristic which is not present on all the four known examples. This leads to the speculation that, given the importance of the purchase, Patek Philippe allowed the client to choose this detail according to their own desire.

The watch, offered complete of its accessories, was sold in 1996 and subsequently appeared at auction in Hong Kong in 2004, which of course is also the first and so far only time a yellow gold 5021 went under the hammer, 22 years ago. A timespan which solidifies into practical perspective the amount of patience collectors looking for one of these elusive watches should have to arm themselves with, were they to miss the present occasion.

Patek Philippe

Swiss | 1839

Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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